The Miniature American Shepherd was developed in California during the late 1960's with the breeding of small, unregistered dogs that were thought to be Australian Shepherds. These dogs were bred with a goal of maintaining their small size, active character and intelligence. The breed was first registered with the National Stock Dog Registry in 1980 and was originally called the Miniature Australian Shepherd. By the early 1990's, they had attained nationwide popularity. Several clubs promoted these small dogs, as they were registered and shown with various rare-breed organizations. The first parent breed club and registry, MASCUSA, was formed in 1990 and incorporated in 1993. The breed entered the AKC Foundation Stock Service as the Miniature American Shepherd in May 2011. The Miniature American Shepherd Club of the USA (MASCUSA) is the designated national parent club of the American Kennel Club. The breed has been used for herding smaller stock such as sheep and goats, although they have the heart to tackle larger stock as well. Their small size was looked upon with favor, as they could more easily double as a household pet. They became especially popular with equestrians traveling to horse shows, as their intelligence, loyalty, and size made them an excellent travel companion. In this way their popularity spread across the country. Today, the Miniature American Shepherd is established across the U.S. and internationally. It is a breed with a unique identity - an eye catching, versatile little herding dog, equally at home on a ranch or in the city. The Miniature American Shepherd is a herding dog and is designated to the Herding Group in the American Kennel Club.

General Appearance: The Miniature American Shepherd is a small size herding dog that originated in the United States. He is slightly longer than tall with bone that is moderate and in proportion to body size and height without extremes. Movement is smooth, easy, and balanced. Exceptional agility combined with strength and stamina allows for working over a variety of terrain. This highly versatile, energetic dog makes an excellent athlete with superior intelligence and a willingness to please those to whom he is devoted. He is both a loyal companion and a biddable worker, which is evident in his watchful expression. The double coat of medium length and coarseness may be solid in color or merled, with or without white and/or tan (copper) markings. He traditionally has a docked or natural bobtail. Size, Proportion and Substance: Size: Height for dogs is 14 inches up to and including 18 inches at the top of the withers. Height for bitches is 13 inches up to and including 17 inches at the top of withers. Disqualification: under 14 inches and over 18 inches for dogs; under 13 inches and over 17 inches for bitches. The minimum heights set forth in this breed standard shall not apply to dogs or bitches under six months of age. Proportion: Measuring from the point of the shoulder to the point of the buttocks and from the highest point of the shoulder blade to the ground, he is slightly longer than tall. Substance: Solidly built with moderate bone in proportion to body height and size. Structure in the dog reflects masculinity without coarseness. Bitches appear feminine without being slight of bone. Head: The head is clean-cut, dry, and in proportion to the body. Expression: Alert, attentive and intelligent. May express a reserved look and/or be watchful of strangers. Eyes: The eyes are set obliquely, almond shaped, neither protruding nor sunken and in proportion to the head. Acceptable in all coat colors, one or both eyes may be brown, blue, hazel, amber or any color combination thereof, including flecks and marbling. The eye rims of the reds and red merles have full red (liver) pigmentation. The eye rims of the blacks and blue merles have full black pigmentation. Ears: Are triangular, of moderate size, set high on the head. At full attention they break forward and over, or to the side as a rose ear. Severe Fault: Prick ears and ears that hang with no lift. Skull: The crown is flat to slightly round and may show a slight occipital protuberance. The width and the length of the crown are equal. Stop: The stop is moderate but defined. Muzzle: The muzzle is of medium width and depth and tapers gradually to a rounded tip without appearing heavy, square, snipy, or loose. Length is equal to the length of the crown. Planes: Viewed from the side, the muzzle and the top line of the crown are slightly oblique to each other, with the front of the crown on a slight angle downward toward the nose. Nose: Red merles and reds have red (liver) pigmentation on the nose leather. Blue merles and blacks have black pigmentation on the nose leather. Fully pigmented noses are preferred. Noses that are less than fully pigmented will be faulted. Severe Fault: 25-50% un-pigmented nose leather. Disqualification: Over 50% un-pigmented nose leather. Bite: A full complement of teeth meet in a scissor bite. Teeth broken, missing or discolored by accident are not penalized. Disqualification: Undershot or overshot bite. Neck, Topline and Body: The overall structure gives an impression of depth and strength without bulkiness. Neck: The neck is firm, clean, and in proportion to the body. It is of medium length and slightly arched at the crest, fitting well into the shoulders. Topline: The back is firm and level from the withers to the hip joint when standing or moving. Loin: The loin is strong and broad when viewed from the top. Croup: The croup is moderately sloped. Body: The body is firm and well conditioned. Chest and Ribs: The chest is full and deep, reaching to the elbow, with well sprung ribs. Underline: The underline shows a moderate tuck-up. Tail: A docked or natural bobtail is preferred. A docked tail is straight, not to exceed three (3) inches. The undocked tail when at rest may hang in a slight curve. When excited or in motion the tail may be carried raised with the curve accentuated. Forequarters: The forequarters are well conditioned and balanced with the hindquarters. Shoulders: Shoulder blades (scapula) are long, flat, fairly close set at the withers, and well laid back. Upper arm: The upper arm (humerus) is equal in length to the shoulder blade and meets the shoulder blade at an approximate right angle. The forelegs drop straight and perpendicular to the ground. Elbow: The elbow joint is equidistant from the ground to the withers. Viewed from the side, the elbow should be directly under the withers. The elbows should be close to the ribs without looseness. Legs: The legs are straight and strong. The bone is oval rather than round. Pasterns: Short, thick and strong, but still flexible, showing a slight angle when viewed from the side. Feet: Oval shaped, compact, with close-knit, well-arched toes. Pads are thick and resilient; nails are short and strong. The nails may be any color combination. Dewclaws should be removed. Hindquarters: Width of hindquarters is approximately equal to the width of the forequarters at the shoulders. Angulation: The angulation of the pelvis and upper thigh (femur) mirrors the angulation of the shoulder blade and upper arm, forming an approximate right angle. Stifle: Stifles are clearly defined. Hock: The hocks are short, perpendicular to the ground and parallel to each other when viewed from the rear. Feet: Feet are oval, compact, with close knit, well arched toes. Pads are thick and resilient; nails are short and strong. The nails may be any color combination. Rear dewclaws should be removed. Coat: Moderation is the overall impression of the coat. Hair is of medium texture, straight to wavy, weather resistant, and of medium length. The undercoat varies in quantity with variations in climate. Hair is short and smooth on the head and front of the legs. The backs of forelegs and breeches are moderately feathered. There is a moderate mane and frill, more pronounced in dogs than in bitches. Hair may be trimmed on the ears, feet, back of hocks, pasterns, and tail, otherwise he is to be shown in a natural coat. Untrimmed whiskers are preferred. Severe Fault: Non-typical coats. Color: The coloring offers variety and individuality. With no order of preference, the recognized colors are black, blue merle, red (liver) and red merle. The merle will exhibit in any amount, marbling, flecks or blotches. Undercoats may be somewhat lighter in color than the topcoat. Asymmetrical markings are not to be faulted. Tan Markings: Tan markings are not required but when present are acceptable in any or all of the following areas; around the eyes, on the feet, legs, chest, muzzle, underside of neck, face, underside of ear, underline of body, under the base of the tail and the breeches. Tan markings vary in shades from creamy beige to dark rust, with no preference. Blending with the base color or merle pattern may be present on the face, legs, feet, and breeches. White Markings: White markings are not required but when present do not dominate. Ticking may be present in white markings. White on the head does not predominate, and the eyes are fully surrounded by color and pigment. Red merles and reds have red (liver) pigmentation on the eye rims. Blue merles and blacks have black pigmentation on the eye rims. Ears fully covered by color are preferred. Severe Fault: White markings covering over 25% of an ear. White markings may be in any combination and are restricted to: the muzzle, cheeks, crown, blaze on head, the neck in a partial or full collar, chest, belly, front legs, hind legs up the hock and may extend in a thin outline of the stifle. A small amount of white extending from the underline may be visible from the side, not to exceed one inch above the elbow. The hairline of a white collar does not exceed the withers at the skin. If a natural undocked tail is present, the tip of the tail may have white. Disqualifications: Other than recognized colors. White body splashes, which means any conspicuous, isolated spot or patch of white on the area between withers and tail, on back, or sides between elbows and back of hindquarters. Gait: Smooth, free, and easy; exhibiting agility of movement with a well-balanced, ground-covering stride. Fore and hind legs move straight and parallel with the center line of the body; as speed increases, the feet, both front and rear, converge toward the center line of gravity of the dog, while the back remains firm and level. When traveling at a trot the head is carried in a natural position with neck extended forward and head nearly level or slightly above the topline. He must be agile and able to turn direction or alter gait instantly. Temperament: The Miniature American Shepherd is intelligent, primarily a working dog of strong herding and guardian instincts. An exceptional companion, he is versatile and easily trained, performing his assigned tasks with great style and enthusiasm. Although reserved with strangers, he does not exhibit shyness. He is a resilient and persistent worker, who adjusts his demeanor and arousal appropriately to the task at hand. With his family he is protective, good natured, devoted and loyal. DISQUALIFICATIONS: Under 14 inches and over 18 inches for dogs; under 13 inches and over 17 inches for bitches. The minimum heights set forth in this breed standard shall not apply to dogs or bitches under six months of age. Over 50% un-pigmented nose leather. Undershot or overshot bite. Other than recognized colors. White body splashes, which means any conspicuous, isolated spot or patch of white on the area between withers and tail, on back, or sides between elbows and back of hindquarters. AKC One-time DISQUALIFICATIONS: Blindness Deafness Castration, spayed Changed by artificial means Attacks or vicious behavior AKC Three-time DISQUALIFICATIONS: Undescended testicles Testicles not present

We use Paw Print Genetics to test all or our dogs. Look for this logo on each dog's page! Click the link to learn more Collie Eye Anomaly Aliases: Choroidal hypoplasia, CEA, CH Degenerative Myelopathy Aliases: Canine degenerative myelopathy, DM Hereditary Cataracts (Australian Shepherd Type) Aliases: Early onset cataracts, Juvenile cataracts, HC, HSF4, JC Hyperuricosuria Aliases: Urolithiasis, HUU Intestinal Cobalamin Malabsorption (Australian Shepherd Type) Aliases: Amnionless Deficiency, Cobalamin Deficiency, Imerslund-Grasbeck Syndrome, Vitamin B12 Deficiency Intestinal Cobalamin Malabsorption (Border Collie Type) Aliases: Cobalamin deficiency, Cubilin deficiency, Imerslund-Grasbeck syndrome, I-GS Multidrug Resistance 1 Aliases: Ivermectin sensitivity, MDR1 gene defect, Multidrug sensitivity, MDR1 Multifocal Retinopathy 1 Aliases: Canine multifocal retinopathy 1, CMR1 Progressive Retinal Atrophy, Progressive Rod-Cone Degeneration Aliases: PRA-PRCD, PRCD

Orthopedic Foundation for Animals, The OFA, working with the breed's parent club, recommends the following basic health screening tests for all breeding stock. Hip Dysplasia (One of the following) OFA Evaluation PennHIP Evaluation Eye Examination Eye Examination by a boarded ACVO Ophthalmologist Elbow Dysplasia (Optional) OFA Evaluation Cardiac Disease (Optional) Veternarian Evaluation Patellar Luxation (Optional) Veternarian Evaluation For potential puppy buyers, testing is a good indicator the breeder responsibly factors good health into their selection criteria. The breed specific list above represents the basic health screening recommendations. It is not all encompassing. There may be other health screening tests appropriate for this breed. And, there may be other health concerns for which there is no commonly accepted screening protocol available.

Finding a responsible breeder you trust is your first – and most important — step to finding your new best friend. Breeders are invaluable resources: Not only are they a bridge between you and your perfect dog, you can rely on them throughout your dog’s lifetime. Think of a breeder as your own private guide to all things dogs, from choosing the right dog to caring for it forever. As with any major decision, it is important to do your homework before making a commitment to a breeder. Here are some tips for finding — and working with — a responsible breeder: Meet the Breeder. The best way to get to know a breeder is to meet in person, which might be at their kennel or in their home. While that may not be possible during COVID-19, ask to meet your breeder and their dogs via a video conferencing system. Observe the dogs and the breeder: Are the premises clean? Odor-free? Does the breeder show a genuine passion for dogs? Are the dogs well fed? How do the dogs interact with the breeder — and with strangers? Both dogs and puppies should not shy away from the breeder and should be outgoing with strangers. Ask questions. One of the biggest benefits of working with a good breeder is that he or she can be counted on throughout your dog’s life. When you’re meeting with a breeder for the first time, come prepared with a list of questions about the breed and the puppy – you can never ask too many, and there are no dumb questions! See how he/she reacts. Is he/she patient with your questions? Does he/she explain things clearly? Do you feel like you have a good rapport? Responsible breeders want to see their dogs in happy, loving forever homes and will be happy to share their knowledge. See the pup’s parents. There’s no better way to see how your dog will grow up than by looking at his parents! It will give you a sense of your dog’s temperament, size, and appearance. Get a full medical history. Reputable breeders will be happy to show proof of health screenings such as OFA and CERF certificates. They will also explain any health conditions that typically affect that particular breed so you know what to watch out for in the long term. Be patient. Don’t expect to meet a breeder and bring home a puppy the same day: Usually the breeder will keep the puppy at the kennel for the first two or three months of its life, so it can mature and socialize with its mother and litter mates. This transition is important, and it’ll give you time to puppy-proof your house and to get the necessary supplies before welcoming him home. Check out our Breeder of Merit and Bred with H.E.A.R.T Programs. AKC Breeders of Merit (BOM) are dedicated to preserving breed characteristics and producing healthy, well-socialized puppies. Learn more about the Breeder of Merit program or find available puppies from Breeders of Merit in AKC Marketplace. Bred with H.E.A.R.T. breeders have continued their education and have met specific health testing standards. Learn more about the Bred with H.E.A.R.T. program or find available puppies from Bred with H.E.A.R.T. breeders in AKC Marketplace. Once you find the breeder you want to work with, make sure to: Get documentation of your puppy’s pedigree. If you have a good meet-and-greet with a breeder, and you want to move ahead, don’t leave the premises without getting the appropriate documentation of your puppy’s pedigree, a.k.a. “papers.” The words “American Kennel Club” as well as the AKC logo should be clearly visible. Be wary of a breeder who hesitates to give you papers, or wants to charge you more for AKC papers, or tells you he/she will mail them to you at a later date. from AKC Staff

For the uninitiated, expertise imparts a shroud of mystery: If you have no idea what a carburetor is, or think a meniscus is a sport they play at the Olympics, how in the world do you pick the best car mechanic or orthopedic surgeon? Dog breeders present an even more vexing conundrum: There’s no perfect directory to help you find a responsible, reputable breeder. Instead, you’re going to have to do some research, leavened with a dollop of good, old-fashioned gut instinct. Here are some considerations to guide you in your search. Click here to read the artlicle in it's intirety.

Why Male Puppies are better than Female Puppies Many people believe that female dogs make better pets. Most inquiries for pet dogs are from people wanting a 'sweet girl'. They think females don't display alpha behaviors like 'marking' and/or 'riding' other dogs. They believe that females are more docile and attentive and do not participate in fighting over dominance. Well folks, that is NOT true. In the dog pack makeup, females usually rule the roost, determine the pecking order, and who competes to maintain and/or alter that order. The females are, as a result, more independent, stubborn, and territorial than their male counterparts. The females are much more intent upon exercising their dominance by participating in alpha behaviors such as 'riding' other dogs. Most fights will usually break out between 2 females. Males, on the other hand, are usually more affectionate, exuberant, attentive, and more demanding of your attention. They are very attached to their people. They also tend to be more steadfast, reliable, and less moody. They are more outgoing, more accepting of other pets, and take quicker to children. Most boys are easily motivated by food and praise, and so eager to please that training is easy. However, males can be easily distracted during training, as males like to play so often. And no matter what age, he is more likely to act silly and more puppy-like, always wanting to play games. Boys are fun loving until the day they die. Females tend to be more reserved or dignified as they age. Think of the human equivalent of the twinkling eyed Grandpa still playing catch with the grandchildren, at age 70 while Grandma quietly observes from the porch. Neutered males rarely exhibit secondary sexual behavior such as 'riding' or 'marking' and lifting of the legs. Once the testosterone levels recede after neutering, most of these behaviors (if they ever existed) will disappear. Boys who are neutered early (by 5 months of age) usually don't ever raise their leg to urinate. And while the female will usually come to you for attention, when she's had enough, she will move away. While boys are always waiting for your attention and are near at hand. Females are usually less distracted during training, as she is more eager to get it over with and get back to her comfy spot on the couch. The female is less likely to wage a dominance battle with YOU, but she can be cunning and resourceful in getting her own way. She is much more prone to mood swings, one day she may be sweet and affectionate, the next day she may be reserved and withdrawn or even grumpy.

Confidence and Activity Level When you first visit the litter, it is important to observe the pups’ interaction with each other before you alert them to your presence. You should be looking for an outgoing pup that is neither excessively submissive, nor dominant with the other pups. Sociability and Temperament When you first interact with the puppies, look for ones that approach you with their heads held high and tails wagging. These are signs of socially well-rounded pups that have had the right start in life. Here are some tests you can do to check a pup’s sociability: Pick up each of these pups and test their reactivity. They shouldn’t struggle excessively or nip and vocalise, and they should settle in your arms. Also manipulate their feet, ears and mouths to check they are not overly reactive to being poked and prodded. Another good test is to hold them down on their backs for 30 seconds, initially they won’t like it but they shouldn’t bite or react excessively, and should actually relax under your moderate pressure. This does take a little skill and confidence – have the adults do this. Be careful not to choose the fearfully shy pup of the litter. We tend to fall for the underdog, but this fearfulness trait is very difficult to change and is worth avoiding unless you have the skills to train the fearful dog effectively to give it confidence. The ideal pup should want to be with you and follow you around and play with you when initiated. Health The pups should be well-rounded and have a healthy, shiny coat. They shouldn’t be too skinny or too fat. Examine the pup physically and check it doesn’t have an under- or over-shot jaw. Its eyes, ears and genitalia should be clear with no discharge or inflammation. Of the two or three pups you have narrowed down, take them aside independently to test their vision and hearing. This can be done by clicking, clapping or dropping something on the ground behind them to see if they respond. Also you can test their sight by putting a treat or toy on the ground near them and making sure they can see it and find it. A good breeder should have all the applicable papers proving the pups are of the highest quality. The breeder should have also taken the pups to be seen by the veterinarian Taking Your Puppy Home Something that most people don’t consider is how important it is to get your dog at 7 – 8 weeks old. This is the beginning of the FORMATIVE PERIOD, and is the most important time in your dog’s development. The best thing you can do for your dog is to get it at this age. For the wolf (and dog alike), this is the transition period and it is the time when the pups would naturally leave the den and start to meet the rest of the pack. You and your family are in essence “the pack”, and building that relationship during the formative period is when you can make or break your pup. If you miss this critical formative period, you risk having a dog that is mal-socialised and may have behavioural issues such as aggression to people or other dogs, hyperactivity, no recall or no understanding of limits and boundaries. During this time it is essential to socialise your puppy with many different people of all ages, races and gender as well as animals of all different species (cats, chickens, stock if you live rurally etc). It’s also the time to teach your puppy all the foundational training skills that you will need for life. Puppy classes are a great tool to help you get started down the right path.

Do's And Don'ts Do take your puppy to the vet at the appropriate age for your puppies next shots. Don't put your puppy on the ground where unknown animals have been until he's had all his puppy shots. This is how he picks up diseases. Do Introduce loud noises (vacuum cleaners, hair driers, etc.) carefully and slowly. Lifetime phobias for your puppy are imprinted during these early months. Don't allow your puppy to become unnecessarily frightened in his first few months of life. Do make sure your puppy gets lots of rest because they tire quickly. Be aware of signs of hypoglycemia in small puppies. Don't overtax your new puppy. Do make sure your puppy interacts with friendly and safe playmates. Don't allow your puppy around dogs you don't know to be safe and friendly or around rough children. Your puppy is breakable. Do reward good behavior when you are crate training. Don't ignore your puppy's whining when confined in his crate. Take him out to potty, even if it hasn't been long since his last visit outside and you suspect he just wants attention. If he goes to the bathroom, praise him and allow him to remain out of his crate for a while. If he doesn't, return him to the crate. However, don't reward your puppy for whining by taking him out of his crate just to play or cuddle. Wait until he's quiet - then take him out! Do set rules, boundaries and limitations. Accustom your puppy to quiet times and being alone for short periods of time. This will prevent separation anxiety later. Don't allow your puppy to expect to always be held or played with. Do know that love and attention are just as important as food and air to an animal who was born to be a companion to his master. Don't allow your puppy to feel abandoned by leaving him unattended for long periods of time. Do praise your puppy for good behavior and praise often. Praise is a stronger motivator than harsh words or discipline for a puppy who lives to please. Don't spoil your puppy. Don't let your puppy do things that you don't want them to do as an adult dog. Do take your puppy to lots of new places. Do feed & water your puppy in different types of dishes, in different rooms, in or out of his crate, on different surfaces. This will eliminate him not wanting to eat when you take him on a trip. Don't wait to start training and socializing your new puppy. The first few months are a critical period in his development and you can't get this time back!

Housebreaking Your Puppy Most puppies are too young to be held responsible for their bladder and bowel habits. A pup will go to the bathroom in the right place sometimes. That may be because she learns fast and is smart, or it may be an accident that was just lucky. It is your job to create opportunities for your pup to be successful and to go in the correct place, outside. Remember these things! 1. Always take your puppy out FIRST thing in the morning, before you do anything. 2. Always take your puppy out FIRST thing after eating a meal. 3. Use a timer or a clock, set it at 30 minutes, and take your puppy out each time the bell rings. If she doesn't relieve herself, just praise her for going outside. As she gets older, you can increase the time. You only need to stay outside with her for a few minutes. Then take her out again every 30 minutes. Learn to read her body language. When a puppy starts circling or sniffing around, pick her up and take her outside FAST. 4. NEVER leave your pup unattended in the house or even a room at a young age. A dog should not be left alone in a house until they are at least one year old, sometimes two. Make sure they have been well-behaved and trustworthy with their bathroom habits first. 5. When you can't watch her, put your puppy in the yard, a pen, or a crate with some toys. But don't forget about her and don't leave her out there too long! 6. Give your puppy her last meal about 1-2 hours before bedtime, and make sure she goes outside to relieve herself just before she goes to bed. DO NOT let her roam free during the night. She should be confined. 7. Never yell at your dog or push her nose in her messes. She is very young. Human babies don't learn to use the toilet until they are two or three years old, right? Don't ask too much of your puppy. Give her opportunities to be successful. 8. Be sure to clean up the areas in the house where your dog has already messed in. Use something that will take away any odor that is there. Dogs will mess again if they can smell the areas. TIP: It's a good idea to check with your veterinarian before beginning any housebreaking schedule.

Many people prefer to housebreak their dogs using a method called 'crate training'. They put their dog in a special dog crate (cage) during the night and when they are away from home for short periods of time. Dogs will usually not mess in small areas because it feels like a cave or home to them. Then, when the people come home or wake up, they let their dog out into the yard. Crate training is a good way to help your dog become housebroken. Dogs like crates because it gives them a chance to be alone for a little while. Even dogs like privacy! TIP: Be patient and try to understand your young dog. Dogs don't do things wrong on purpose. They are gentle and loving and just want to please you. But they do make mistakes. Here are a couple of books that may help: How to Housebreak Your Dog in 7 Days, by Shirlee Kalstone The very popular solution to a common problem. One of Amazon.com's biggest sellers! Crate Training Your Dog, by Pat Storer, Workman Pub Co; Booklet edition (December 1, 2000)

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