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So you want to have a litter of puppies for Sassy’s sake or the kids’
education or the vacation or holiday fund? Don’t – unless you:
consider all the potential pitfalls to breeding, are willing to guarantee the health of the
puppies, are prepared for the daily care and socialization of puppies, can deal with the
emotional impact of problems and of parting with the puppies, will carefully screen
potential puppy buyers, can withstand the financial expenses that occur if Sassy has
trouble whelping or a pup gets sick or a buyer can’t keep the pup he bought. In other
words, unless you are prepared to do the same things a responsible breeder would do,
don’t bother.
Getting the litter on the ground is only half the battle. Although many litters are born
without trouble and puppies trot off to new homes with nary a glance backward,
responsible breeders do everything they can to make sure the pup not only gets a good
start in life, but has a lifetime commitment to keep it healthy and safe. Although the best
plans can go awry, they do not leave the fate of their pups to chance.
Backyard breeders have a different perspective. Whether they are producing pups for
money or to give Sassy or the kids the experience of birth, they usually approach puppy
production with a carefree attitude. If a pup dies, it’s too bad, but that’s life. If it has worms
or fleas or mange, that’s life, too. And if that last pup or two doesn't sell by three months,
well, it’s off to the shelter.
Responsible breeders consider every aspect of puppy production to be important. After
taking care to whelp healthy puppies to be sold as pets or show dogs, they treat each
litter with care and concern for their physical and mental development, provide initial
socialization and house training, and carefully screen prospective owners.
Health
Responsible breeders are those who carefully select a mate for Puffin or Princess; make
sure she’s hale and hardy before breeding; and get her checked for hip dysplasia, eye
diseases, deafness, or any other breed-related genetic abnormality. And they make sure
the male selected to father the litter is just as healthy.
All breeds – mixes included – suffer from genetic abnormalities. Some of these
abnormalities can be detected by x-rays or through blood tests or DNA screens. Skeletal
malformations such as hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia, and loose kneecaps (luxating
patellas) can be detected by x-ray. These joint deformities can cause painful arthritis in
later years, can be passed on to offspring, and may lead to expensive surgeries and the
emotion trauma of euthanizing a young dog that is afflicted beyond repair.
Since the idea of purebred dog breeding is to produce puppies that will grow up to look
like a particular breed, dogs with a disqualifying breed fault should not be bred. At times,
this may mean foregoing a litter with a bitch for faults that seem to be minor but can lead
to diffusion of breed character. For example, a too-tall American Eskimo Dog might
produce pups that look more like Samoyeds; an Akita bitch without the characteristic
curled tail might produce pups with equally unacceptable tails; a white Boxer is likely to be
deaf or to produce deaf puppies; etc.
Dogs with minor faults should only be bred to mates that can correct those faults. For
example, if Sassy’s teeth alignment is off, she should only be paired with a male with
perfect teeth. Or if she’s a bit small or large for the breed standard, she should be bred to
a dog that is the correct size.
Temperament
Since temperament is also inherited , even if Puffin is a perfect physical example of the
breed, she must have the typical breed temperament in order to be a good candidate for
breeding. A Cocker Spaniel should be happy-go-lucky, sweet, good with children, and
relatively responsive to training. A German Shepherd is allowed to be aloof with strangers
and protective of the family and territory, but should be responsive to training, good with
children, and never exhibit viciousness. An Alaskan Malamute can be aggressive to other
animals and domineering to other dogs, but she can never be aggressive to people and
should be responsive to training.
Dogs that are very shy or fearful, dogs that are domineering, and dogs that have an
atypical energy level for the breed can pass these characteristics along to their pups.
Thus familiarity with and attention to the breed standard is critical in deciding if Princess
should be bred.
Finding a stud dog
Easiest place to find a stud dog is in the neighborhood, but easiest is rarely best,
especially since you want the stud dog to be as healthy as your bitch, to have a good
temperament, and to be a good example of the breed. Best place to find a stud dog is
through the local dog fancy. Your veterinarian can likely provide a telephone number of a
breeder or a kennel club contact, and you can begin the search. If there is no suitable
male locally, you can contact the breed’s regional or national club for help.
Be prepared to travel a bit if your breed is not well-represented in your region.
Heat cycle
Most bitches cycle every six-nine months, depending on breed, health, and other factors.
The search for a mate should begin months before the cycle is expected so you’re not
scrambling at the last minute.
The heat or estrus cycle begins with a swelling of the external opening to the reproductive
tract and lasts about 21 days. There is a bloody discharge for the first week or so,
although you may not notice if Puffin cleans herself well. When the discharge becomes
clear, the fertile period is imminent – usually from day 10-day 14. After the fertile period,
the heat winds down until the discharge and swelling have disappeared.
A bitch may be cranky as her heat cycle approaches. She will not accept a male until the
days when she is fertile; until then she may fight him if he tries to breed.
Some breeders take advantage of advanced reproductive technology to pinpoint the
exact days when conception is likely to occur and have their bitches tested for hormone
levels and reproductive system cell structure.
Pregnancy – or not
Once the breeding is done, there’s nothing to do but wait. Pregnancy lasts 61-64 days;
puppies can be detected by x-ray or ultrasound about halfway through. There are some
telltale signs – increased appetite, weight gain, nipple enlargement – but they could apply
to a false pregnancy as well as the real thing.
Although the number of accidental breedings and the proliferation of strays in some cities
suggests that canine reproduction is a snap, producing a litter can actually be a hit or
miss proposition. If it’s too hot, if the stud dog is under stress, if either dog has low thyroid
or a systemic infection or is poorly nourished, the attempt may fail.
Some bitches will undergo a false pregnancy after an unsuccessful breeding and will go to
great lengths to make it seem as if they are proceeding through a pregnancy. Some false
pregnancies resolve without medical attention; others need veterinary assistance.
Both pregnant and non-pregnant bitches can also contract pyometra, an infection of the
uterus. A telltale sign of pyometra is a foul discharge from the vulva four to eight weeks
after the fertile period of the heat cycle. However, if the bitch’s cervix (the connection
between the uterus and the vagina) is closed, no discharge escapes and the bitch can be
deathly ill before the disease is suspected and diagnosed.
Treatment often involves surgery to remove the uterus, but in some cases, the disease
can be cured without this drastic step. Early intervention is best; if a bitch becomes
lethargic and loses her appetite in the weeks after her heat cycle, a veterinary exam is in
order.
Costs before whelping
It obviously isn’t cheap to produce a litter of healthy puppies! So far, costs include
hip, elbow, and knee x-rays as appropriate for the breed; blood and DNA tests for various
diseases as appropriate for the breed; obedience classes to make sure Princess is well-
socialized and is trainable; a stud fee or promise of a puppy to the stud owner; travel
costs if the stud is some distance away; fertility tests if desired; x-ray or sonogram to see if
the breeding was successful. Beyond the financial costs are the emotional and ethical
issues involved. Puppies are not craft projects or widgets, they are living creatures.
Therefore, the decision to breed is a serious one involving not only proper care of the
bitch but also puppy care and socialization; responsibility for placing each puppy in a
good home; and help for puppy buyers who run into problems with health or training of
their new family member. Breeders must also be prepared to take back any puppy that
doesn’t work out, and to keep it or find it another home.
Whelping
Birth is a natural process, so many dogs are left on their own to bring puppies into the
world under the bed, in the closet, or in a cardboard box. There’s no heat lamp to warm
the puppies and no watchful midwife to monitor the progression of labor, make sure Sassy
will clean the pups, and determine that the pups are breathing and nursing.
Responsible breeders mark the due date on the calendar and prepare a whelping area or
box several days ahead of time. The whelping area should be large enough that Sassy
can stretch out to nurse puppies, and not so large that the blind and deaf puppies will be
unable to get to the milk bar.
The bitch’s temperature drops below 100 degrees within 24 hours of whelping, so
breeders check temperature frequently as the due date nears. They also watch for
dripping nipples, a sign that milk is filling the breasts.
Each puppy has its own placenta, which the bitch removes by licking that also stimulates
the pup to breathe. Inexperienced bitches may need help to cut the umbilical cord, clean
the pups, get them breathing, and make sure they begin to nurse, so breeders stand by
with towels for cleaning and rubbing puppies and place them at a nipple to get started.
Puppies are usually born head first, but can be turned around in the birth canal. Breech
puppies are harder to push out and bitches may tire while trying. Some breeders keep a
uterine stimulant on hand to help with labor; others make a trip to the veterinary clinic for
assistance. A normal whelping can go quickly with puppies arriving at half-hour intervals
or can take several hours with as long as three or four hours between puppies.
Some time after all the puppies are born, the bitch will pass the afterbirth. If she does not
get expel this tissue, she can become infected, leaving her litter to be tube fed until she is
healthy.
The first weeks
Puppies cannot hear, see, regulate their own body temperature, or defecate on their own
when they are born. They need to be kept warm and clean and to be handled daily to get
accustomed to human scent and attention. Heat lamps are often necessary for adequate
warmth. Mom will stimulate them to defecate and urinate by licking their bellies, and, in the
manner of wolves, she will clean up the mess. As a result, she may have diarrhea for
several days following whelping.
Pups are little more than squirmy, blind, deaf parasites for two weeks. They may squeak
and whimper as they sleep or crawl about, but they cry only if they are cold, hungry, or in
pain. They need daily handling if only to move them from one spot in the whelping box to
another while clean papers are put down. Eyes open at about two weeks and ears at
about three weeks. Pups can generally stand at 15-16 days but cannot do more than
stumble about. Ability to control waste elimination develops at about three weeks and
regulation of body temperature follows.
By four weeks, a miracle has occurred: pups may be eating gruel at this point and moving
around with increasing coordination. They pay attention to toys, attempt to play, and have
increasing periods of activity.
By five weeks, they may be weaned or almost so and be ready for rudimentary house
training and socialization. In good weather, house training is made easy by putting the
puppies in an exercise pen outside after meals and keeping the whelping area clean.
Puppies should be handled purposefully every day, with attention to ears, toes, coat, and
teeth. They can be brushed with a soft brush or rubbed with a soft cloth to stimulate skin
and prepare for a lifetime of grooming and handling.
By six weeks, puppies are climbing out of the whelping box, playing vigorously with
littermates, enjoying toys, and seeking human attention. This is the time to introduce new
surfaces to walk on and new areas to explore, and to put tunnels, boxes, and lots of
different toys in the exercise area.
Six weeks is also time for the first visit to the veterinarian for worming (roundworms can be
passed from Mom to puppies) and initial vaccination.
Although puppies can leave Mom by six weeks, it is best that they stay together for
another 10-14 days to learn how to get along with other dogs and to translate that
awareness to a developing relationship with humans. Puppies removed from the litter too
early often develop a range of behavior problems from extreme shyness to aggression,
depending on the underlying genetic code.
By seven weeks, a breeder knows which puppies are most dominant and submissive,
which are most attentive to people, which are most curious or adventurous, and which
have the best potential as future breeding stock, etc. and can match them with a family.
For example, the responsible breeder of a guardian breed would choose a mild-mannered
puppy for the first-time owner of the breed, an attentive puppy for a future in the
obedience ring, or a dominant puppy for an experienced owner who can handle a
challenge.
Puppies enter a fear period at eight weeks of age, and most experts suggest that they go
to new home between the seventh and eighth weeks or wait until 12 weeks when the fear
period has passed.
Choosing new owners
Responsible breeders interview potential puppy buyers whether the pups are an
accidental mixed breed litter being sold for next to nothing or purebred show dogs of
champion stock. A minimal interview includes such questions as
Are you aware of and do you intend to abide by the dog laws and regulations in your
community?
Do you have a fenced yard?
Are there children in the family? How old are they?
Are there other pets?
Do you plan to take the pet to at least two sets of obedience classes for good manners?
Do you intend to get involved in obedience, tracking, therapy work or other dog jobs?
These questions are not intended to pry or embarrass, they are meant to help place the
best possible puppy in each home.
Responsible breeders ask for references, check with apartment managers, spend time
with the whole family, observe the kids around the puppies, and require that pet-quality
puppies be spayed or neutered. They have contracts that protect the dog, the buyer and
themselves and offer to take the puppy back if the buyer can no longer keep it – no
matter the age. Many responsible breeders also microchip or tattoo their puppies for
permanent identification and withhold the registration papers until the pup has been
spayed or neutered.
Contracts
A breeder’s contract spells out the expectations on all sides. Because careful breeding
can do no more than reduce the potential for genetic abnormalities, the contract generally
offers some compensation for the pup that develops a debilitating genetic health problem.
The reparation may be a free pup from a future litter or a refund of money upon proof of
diagnosis. The contract may also require sterilization of the pup or place it on limited
registration, an AKC category that allows the dog to compete in breed shows but does not
allow registration of offspring. Other potential clauses include requirements for annual
veterinary visits and appropriate care, attendance at obedience classes, return of the pup
if the owner can no longer keep it, and confinement of the dog behind a fence.
Time, costs add up
Costs in time and money continue to add up. Initial cost of a whelping box (plans are
available for building your own) and heat lamp are amortized over several litters – if you
can stand the emotional and physical drain of breeding, whelping, and placing multiple
litters).
Other costs are
Veterinary attention – and a possible Caesarian delivery – if whelping goes wrong;
Vet visits for vaccinations and worming
A portable exercise pen to keep puppies safe outside the whelping area
Microchip or tattoo
Time also adds up, time to clean the whelping box several times a day, socialize the
puppies, talk to potential buyers and contact their references, and visit the vet clinic for
initial vaccinations or emergency trips with Mom or pups. And it doesn’t end when the
pups go to new homes, for buyers frequently need help with housetraining, obedience
training, and understanding and coping with normal puppy behavior.
Raising puppies is not as simple as one-two-three. Things can go wrong at any step of
the way, so contingencies must be planned and money and time must be available to give
the pups the best start at building a bond with a human family, a bond that can last a
lifetime.
education or the vacation or holiday fund? Don’t – unless you:
consider all the potential pitfalls to breeding, are willing to guarantee the health of the
puppies, are prepared for the daily care and socialization of puppies, can deal with the
emotional impact of problems and of parting with the puppies, will carefully screen
potential puppy buyers, can withstand the financial expenses that occur if Sassy has
trouble whelping or a pup gets sick or a buyer can’t keep the pup he bought. In other
words, unless you are prepared to do the same things a responsible breeder would do,
don’t bother.
Getting the litter on the ground is only half the battle. Although many litters are born
without trouble and puppies trot off to new homes with nary a glance backward,
responsible breeders do everything they can to make sure the pup not only gets a good
start in life, but has a lifetime commitment to keep it healthy and safe. Although the best
plans can go awry, they do not leave the fate of their pups to chance.
Backyard breeders have a different perspective. Whether they are producing pups for
money or to give Sassy or the kids the experience of birth, they usually approach puppy
production with a carefree attitude. If a pup dies, it’s too bad, but that’s life. If it has worms
or fleas or mange, that’s life, too. And if that last pup or two doesn't sell by three months,
well, it’s off to the shelter.
Responsible breeders consider every aspect of puppy production to be important. After
taking care to whelp healthy puppies to be sold as pets or show dogs, they treat each
litter with care and concern for their physical and mental development, provide initial
socialization and house training, and carefully screen prospective owners.
Health
Responsible breeders are those who carefully select a mate for Puffin or Princess; make
sure she’s hale and hardy before breeding; and get her checked for hip dysplasia, eye
diseases, deafness, or any other breed-related genetic abnormality. And they make sure
the male selected to father the litter is just as healthy.
All breeds – mixes included – suffer from genetic abnormalities. Some of these
abnormalities can be detected by x-rays or through blood tests or DNA screens. Skeletal
malformations such as hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia, and loose kneecaps (luxating
patellas) can be detected by x-ray. These joint deformities can cause painful arthritis in
later years, can be passed on to offspring, and may lead to expensive surgeries and the
emotion trauma of euthanizing a young dog that is afflicted beyond repair.
Since the idea of purebred dog breeding is to produce puppies that will grow up to look
like a particular breed, dogs with a disqualifying breed fault should not be bred. At times,
this may mean foregoing a litter with a bitch for faults that seem to be minor but can lead
to diffusion of breed character. For example, a too-tall American Eskimo Dog might
produce pups that look more like Samoyeds; an Akita bitch without the characteristic
curled tail might produce pups with equally unacceptable tails; a white Boxer is likely to be
deaf or to produce deaf puppies; etc.
Dogs with minor faults should only be bred to mates that can correct those faults. For
example, if Sassy’s teeth alignment is off, she should only be paired with a male with
perfect teeth. Or if she’s a bit small or large for the breed standard, she should be bred to
a dog that is the correct size.
Temperament
Since temperament is also inherited , even if Puffin is a perfect physical example of the
breed, she must have the typical breed temperament in order to be a good candidate for
breeding. A Cocker Spaniel should be happy-go-lucky, sweet, good with children, and
relatively responsive to training. A German Shepherd is allowed to be aloof with strangers
and protective of the family and territory, but should be responsive to training, good with
children, and never exhibit viciousness. An Alaskan Malamute can be aggressive to other
animals and domineering to other dogs, but she can never be aggressive to people and
should be responsive to training.
Dogs that are very shy or fearful, dogs that are domineering, and dogs that have an
atypical energy level for the breed can pass these characteristics along to their pups.
Thus familiarity with and attention to the breed standard is critical in deciding if Princess
should be bred.
Finding a stud dog
Easiest place to find a stud dog is in the neighborhood, but easiest is rarely best,
especially since you want the stud dog to be as healthy as your bitch, to have a good
temperament, and to be a good example of the breed. Best place to find a stud dog is
through the local dog fancy. Your veterinarian can likely provide a telephone number of a
breeder or a kennel club contact, and you can begin the search. If there is no suitable
male locally, you can contact the breed’s regional or national club for help.
Be prepared to travel a bit if your breed is not well-represented in your region.
Heat cycle
Most bitches cycle every six-nine months, depending on breed, health, and other factors.
The search for a mate should begin months before the cycle is expected so you’re not
scrambling at the last minute.
The heat or estrus cycle begins with a swelling of the external opening to the reproductive
tract and lasts about 21 days. There is a bloody discharge for the first week or so,
although you may not notice if Puffin cleans herself well. When the discharge becomes
clear, the fertile period is imminent – usually from day 10-day 14. After the fertile period,
the heat winds down until the discharge and swelling have disappeared.
A bitch may be cranky as her heat cycle approaches. She will not accept a male until the
days when she is fertile; until then she may fight him if he tries to breed.
Some breeders take advantage of advanced reproductive technology to pinpoint the
exact days when conception is likely to occur and have their bitches tested for hormone
levels and reproductive system cell structure.
Pregnancy – or not
Once the breeding is done, there’s nothing to do but wait. Pregnancy lasts 61-64 days;
puppies can be detected by x-ray or ultrasound about halfway through. There are some
telltale signs – increased appetite, weight gain, nipple enlargement – but they could apply
to a false pregnancy as well as the real thing.
Although the number of accidental breedings and the proliferation of strays in some cities
suggests that canine reproduction is a snap, producing a litter can actually be a hit or
miss proposition. If it’s too hot, if the stud dog is under stress, if either dog has low thyroid
or a systemic infection or is poorly nourished, the attempt may fail.
Some bitches will undergo a false pregnancy after an unsuccessful breeding and will go to
great lengths to make it seem as if they are proceeding through a pregnancy. Some false
pregnancies resolve without medical attention; others need veterinary assistance.
Both pregnant and non-pregnant bitches can also contract pyometra, an infection of the
uterus. A telltale sign of pyometra is a foul discharge from the vulva four to eight weeks
after the fertile period of the heat cycle. However, if the bitch’s cervix (the connection
between the uterus and the vagina) is closed, no discharge escapes and the bitch can be
deathly ill before the disease is suspected and diagnosed.
Treatment often involves surgery to remove the uterus, but in some cases, the disease
can be cured without this drastic step. Early intervention is best; if a bitch becomes
lethargic and loses her appetite in the weeks after her heat cycle, a veterinary exam is in
order.
Costs before whelping
It obviously isn’t cheap to produce a litter of healthy puppies! So far, costs include
hip, elbow, and knee x-rays as appropriate for the breed; blood and DNA tests for various
diseases as appropriate for the breed; obedience classes to make sure Princess is well-
socialized and is trainable; a stud fee or promise of a puppy to the stud owner; travel
costs if the stud is some distance away; fertility tests if desired; x-ray or sonogram to see if
the breeding was successful. Beyond the financial costs are the emotional and ethical
issues involved. Puppies are not craft projects or widgets, they are living creatures.
Therefore, the decision to breed is a serious one involving not only proper care of the
bitch but also puppy care and socialization; responsibility for placing each puppy in a
good home; and help for puppy buyers who run into problems with health or training of
their new family member. Breeders must also be prepared to take back any puppy that
doesn’t work out, and to keep it or find it another home.
Whelping
Birth is a natural process, so many dogs are left on their own to bring puppies into the
world under the bed, in the closet, or in a cardboard box. There’s no heat lamp to warm
the puppies and no watchful midwife to monitor the progression of labor, make sure Sassy
will clean the pups, and determine that the pups are breathing and nursing.
Responsible breeders mark the due date on the calendar and prepare a whelping area or
box several days ahead of time. The whelping area should be large enough that Sassy
can stretch out to nurse puppies, and not so large that the blind and deaf puppies will be
unable to get to the milk bar.
The bitch’s temperature drops below 100 degrees within 24 hours of whelping, so
breeders check temperature frequently as the due date nears. They also watch for
dripping nipples, a sign that milk is filling the breasts.
Each puppy has its own placenta, which the bitch removes by licking that also stimulates
the pup to breathe. Inexperienced bitches may need help to cut the umbilical cord, clean
the pups, get them breathing, and make sure they begin to nurse, so breeders stand by
with towels for cleaning and rubbing puppies and place them at a nipple to get started.
Puppies are usually born head first, but can be turned around in the birth canal. Breech
puppies are harder to push out and bitches may tire while trying. Some breeders keep a
uterine stimulant on hand to help with labor; others make a trip to the veterinary clinic for
assistance. A normal whelping can go quickly with puppies arriving at half-hour intervals
or can take several hours with as long as three or four hours between puppies.
Some time after all the puppies are born, the bitch will pass the afterbirth. If she does not
get expel this tissue, she can become infected, leaving her litter to be tube fed until she is
healthy.
The first weeks
Puppies cannot hear, see, regulate their own body temperature, or defecate on their own
when they are born. They need to be kept warm and clean and to be handled daily to get
accustomed to human scent and attention. Heat lamps are often necessary for adequate
warmth. Mom will stimulate them to defecate and urinate by licking their bellies, and, in the
manner of wolves, she will clean up the mess. As a result, she may have diarrhea for
several days following whelping.
Pups are little more than squirmy, blind, deaf parasites for two weeks. They may squeak
and whimper as they sleep or crawl about, but they cry only if they are cold, hungry, or in
pain. They need daily handling if only to move them from one spot in the whelping box to
another while clean papers are put down. Eyes open at about two weeks and ears at
about three weeks. Pups can generally stand at 15-16 days but cannot do more than
stumble about. Ability to control waste elimination develops at about three weeks and
regulation of body temperature follows.
By four weeks, a miracle has occurred: pups may be eating gruel at this point and moving
around with increasing coordination. They pay attention to toys, attempt to play, and have
increasing periods of activity.
By five weeks, they may be weaned or almost so and be ready for rudimentary house
training and socialization. In good weather, house training is made easy by putting the
puppies in an exercise pen outside after meals and keeping the whelping area clean.
Puppies should be handled purposefully every day, with attention to ears, toes, coat, and
teeth. They can be brushed with a soft brush or rubbed with a soft cloth to stimulate skin
and prepare for a lifetime of grooming and handling.
By six weeks, puppies are climbing out of the whelping box, playing vigorously with
littermates, enjoying toys, and seeking human attention. This is the time to introduce new
surfaces to walk on and new areas to explore, and to put tunnels, boxes, and lots of
different toys in the exercise area.
Six weeks is also time for the first visit to the veterinarian for worming (roundworms can be
passed from Mom to puppies) and initial vaccination.
Although puppies can leave Mom by six weeks, it is best that they stay together for
another 10-14 days to learn how to get along with other dogs and to translate that
awareness to a developing relationship with humans. Puppies removed from the litter too
early often develop a range of behavior problems from extreme shyness to aggression,
depending on the underlying genetic code.
By seven weeks, a breeder knows which puppies are most dominant and submissive,
which are most attentive to people, which are most curious or adventurous, and which
have the best potential as future breeding stock, etc. and can match them with a family.
For example, the responsible breeder of a guardian breed would choose a mild-mannered
puppy for the first-time owner of the breed, an attentive puppy for a future in the
obedience ring, or a dominant puppy for an experienced owner who can handle a
challenge.
Puppies enter a fear period at eight weeks of age, and most experts suggest that they go
to new home between the seventh and eighth weeks or wait until 12 weeks when the fear
period has passed.
Choosing new owners
Responsible breeders interview potential puppy buyers whether the pups are an
accidental mixed breed litter being sold for next to nothing or purebred show dogs of
champion stock. A minimal interview includes such questions as
Are you aware of and do you intend to abide by the dog laws and regulations in your
community?
Do you have a fenced yard?
Are there children in the family? How old are they?
Are there other pets?
Do you plan to take the pet to at least two sets of obedience classes for good manners?
Do you intend to get involved in obedience, tracking, therapy work or other dog jobs?
These questions are not intended to pry or embarrass, they are meant to help place the
best possible puppy in each home.
Responsible breeders ask for references, check with apartment managers, spend time
with the whole family, observe the kids around the puppies, and require that pet-quality
puppies be spayed or neutered. They have contracts that protect the dog, the buyer and
themselves and offer to take the puppy back if the buyer can no longer keep it – no
matter the age. Many responsible breeders also microchip or tattoo their puppies for
permanent identification and withhold the registration papers until the pup has been
spayed or neutered.
Contracts
A breeder’s contract spells out the expectations on all sides. Because careful breeding
can do no more than reduce the potential for genetic abnormalities, the contract generally
offers some compensation for the pup that develops a debilitating genetic health problem.
The reparation may be a free pup from a future litter or a refund of money upon proof of
diagnosis. The contract may also require sterilization of the pup or place it on limited
registration, an AKC category that allows the dog to compete in breed shows but does not
allow registration of offspring. Other potential clauses include requirements for annual
veterinary visits and appropriate care, attendance at obedience classes, return of the pup
if the owner can no longer keep it, and confinement of the dog behind a fence.
Time, costs add up
Costs in time and money continue to add up. Initial cost of a whelping box (plans are
available for building your own) and heat lamp are amortized over several litters – if you
can stand the emotional and physical drain of breeding, whelping, and placing multiple
litters).
Other costs are
Veterinary attention – and a possible Caesarian delivery – if whelping goes wrong;
Vet visits for vaccinations and worming
A portable exercise pen to keep puppies safe outside the whelping area
Microchip or tattoo
Time also adds up, time to clean the whelping box several times a day, socialize the
puppies, talk to potential buyers and contact their references, and visit the vet clinic for
initial vaccinations or emergency trips with Mom or pups. And it doesn’t end when the
pups go to new homes, for buyers frequently need help with housetraining, obedience
training, and understanding and coping with normal puppy behavior.
Raising puppies is not as simple as one-two-three. Things can go wrong at any step of
the way, so contingencies must be planned and money and time must be available to give
the pups the best start at building a bond with a human family, a bond that can last a
lifetime.
| So You want to raise a litter of puppies |